The most useful articles of clothing are often those that cover core of the body – waistcoats (knitted or woven), gilets, and to an extent scarves. It is they that make a lightweight outfit warm enough, or enable us to cope with cool mornings and warm days.
I’ve always been a fan of gilets in this regard. They do have to be slim enough, however; a bulky down vest flatters no one, hiding the waist and rounding the shoulders.
I often size down in order to get that slimness. You have to watch out that the length doesn’t come up too much and the armholes don’t become too small, but at least there is no concern over sleeve length.
I can’t recommend wearing them large over suit jackets. It just looks too artificial.
Like a coat, the best gilets are also in versatile colours, as they need to go with many colours of shirt or knitwear. Brown is usually the best option, therefore – ideally a dark brown, which will go with near anything and be at home with jeans, flannel or linen. The cognac colour I’m wearing above looks wonderful with grey, white and pale blue, but is not so suited to navy and other strong colours.
Suede of either colour works particularly well with mid-grey wool, as every Italian designer will show you come Autumn/Winter. Here, it is worn with a sweater in that colour from Johnston’s, as well as a blue oxford button-down shirt from Drake’s.
The gilet is the New Cortina model from Loro Piana, which as you would expect has the highest quality suede you will find anywhere, with a practical treatment to make it water-resistant.
Photo: Luke Carby
Hi Simon, I find these gilets only really suit those with a slim torso. If like me you have any kind of stomach a gilet often makes your middle look bigger and can give a very ‘stocky’ look. Do you have any tips or suggestions how your curvier readers can wear a gilet without looking as if they’re wearing a lifejacket?
Good question. One good tip is to find one that has a double-way zip, so it can zip up from the bottom as well as down from the top. You can then leave only a small section in the middle zipped up, creating a natural waist on the gilet that it wouldn’t ordinarily have.
That is a stunning piece. Any affordable recommendations?
Ralph Lauren does some nice ones, one or two in black label surprisingly. Also Canali and Corneliani. If that counts as affordable?
Simon,
The idea of a gilet is interesting. Are there any companies that make merino wool or cashmere gilets that you like? All the gilets I’ve seen have been down filled, such as the one you’re wearing, and therefore, not quite as slim fitting as I’d like.
I am all for a gilet but why on earth would you spend 3k on that?
I got it in the sale – rather like Cabourn, I treat myself to one thing a year from Loro Piana in the sale if I can.
It’s still very expensive, of course, but it is absolutely the best quality materials anywhere. So many in the industry will tell you that, even now with prices higher.
It’s very beautiful!
That’s good information. Your idea of treating yourself to one piece a year is interesting. I have a few Loro Piana pieces and they literally get better with age. The quality of the goods is just stunning.
Absolutely.
I’ll do a post at some point on my Loro Piana ‘investments’ over the years. It takes discipline!
That’s a great idea! I’ve found that the Loro Piana pieces I have always have a flattering fit no matter how old the actual piece is . This is also a characteristic of John Smedley knitwear as well I’ve noticed. Isn’t it interesting that both companies share a passion for the best materials and beautiful design?
True, they have a lot in common.
A couple of things worth highlighting though:
– LP always has the same fit, which can be a little boxy
– Smedley now has two quite distinct fits, slim and classic, which are very different to each other
– Loro Piana always goes for the ultimate material in whatever they do
– Smedley mostly uses good but fairly standard materials, their merino being the classic. Very good, but not the finest in the world. This is changing slightly with their use of more Sea Island Cotton and particularly cashmere/silk mixes
Excellent points and thanks for the clarification. Do you have an opinion on the British knitwear company Inis Meain?
I do, I know them personally and they are stocked by a lot of good shops – Anderson & Sheppard, Private White, the Hanger Project.
It’s beautifully made, hand-framed knitwear, but does tend towards boxier shapes and can be a little loose and baggy in some weaves and materials.
Hi Simon,
Just did a quick search by brand and I couldn’t find such a piece. I think it would still be an interesting read.
A piece on Inis Meain? I haven’t written one – didn’t think I mentioned that I had?
Ah no sorry, should’ve been a bit more clear. I was refering to your Loro Piana investments and the once a year buying strategy. Assuming that has kept on past 2015 that is.
I see. Yes, it has, but no I’ve never written the piece. It is on my list though!
Ah the Fulham lifejacket!
Indeed! I like to think most are worn too bulky and cheaply (synthetically) though
Hello Simon, I absolutely love that Gilet, rushed down to Bond St to buy one this afternoon only to find that it is last sessions! There is one left in there UK warehouse size small. You and I are about the same build so may I ask, what size is yours? Thanks. Ken
Small – go for it!
Thanks Simon, I have done so!
I brought one from Suit Supply and found it had a better cut then some of the ones from the likes of The North Face .
Simon, what are your thoughts on wearing a gillet under a suit / sports jacket ?
I find it can work a treat if the cut is right and the gillet is lightly padded .
I think that can be a very nice look, yes. It has to be lightly padded, as you say, to not make much difference to the line of the jacket.
Having the collar coming out of the top of the jacket can look very nice – Corneliani does that particularly well, with its sections that zip in and out of some jackets. That’s something I want to have made bespoke at some point.
Simon, slightly off topic:
Do you know of any brand that makes good shawl collar cardigans that is suitable for spring/summer? I have a very nice one in from RL in lambswool, but the heavy gauge makes it a little to warm when it is above 10 °C or so outside. Keep up the good work with the blog!
I was thinking that a “heavy gauge” cotton version could be nice? I have tried on relativeliy fine gauge from John Smedley, but it was not really flattering
You anticipated my answer. As I said, Id avoid those. Lightweight cardigans are often not flattering – the for has to be bang on
Thanks. Anderson & Sheppaed are worth looking at – but I would recommend avoiding cotton ones, they are often heavy one and don’t wear well. Shawl-collar sweaters in cotton or cotton/silk can be nice though. RL and Paul Stuart do some
Dear Simon,
could you please link to that sweater? Can’t find that colour on Johnston’s website 🙁
Thank you!
It’s not a new one. Have a look on the Anderson & Sheppard site though – they have the same style in various weights
http://shop.anderson-sheppard.co.uk/knitwear/crew-necks/crew-neck-lightweight-cashmere-sweater-with-long-sleeves-43139
Hi Simon, do you have any tips to stop the Loro Piana gilet from depositing masses of suede particles over ones shirts or whatever layer is worn under it?
I’d go into the store and ask about that Ken. I haven’t had that problem at all
Hi Simon,
Would you say Navy suede would work as well as the browns you mentioned?
Almost. It would be smarter, and so less suited to other country colours. So it depends what you’d wear it with.
With autumn approaching, any update on current gilet offerings would be very much appreciated!
Hi Simon,
While searching for different gilet options, I came across a couple by Engelska Herr. Normally when I come across a new (to me) label, I have found your posts quiet helpful to get a sense of that brand. But couldn’t find anything on EH. Curious if you have come across this brand and if you had thoughts on the general make?
Thanks!
I don’t I’m afraid, no, I haven’t tried them
hey Simon , did you ever get around to writing that article on your annual loro piana purchases ? would love to see how you piece held up over the years
No, sorry Ian. It is still on my list though!
Hello Simon. What’s your thoughts on wearing a navy light padded nylon gilet (aspesi jil), under a navy wool/cashmere flannel coat? I was thinking about wearing it on colder days with grey flannels and knitwear.
I don’t like that look really Fredrik. The gilet is not very elegant and clashes with a nice coat, in my view. It’s also a bit bulbous and often distorts the line of a nice coat.
Hi Simon, I’m a bit taken aback by the tribal ubiquity of gilets in affluent London. It seems to have become a uniform for a few types of chap. Sloanes in their Schoffels. Bankers inland tech bros in Patagonia. Are you still a fan? Any tips for where to find one that has the style benefits without the tribal signalling?
I do love a gilet, but not a plastic one, and certainly not worn under a suit jacket.
If I do wear one, it’s something more rugged and closer to the original hiking varieties. See here for a Real McCoys ones I love. I also have a suede Rocky Mountain Featherbed that the Armoury did as a collaboration which is great.
Any thoughts on a navy down vest (maybe quilted?) above sport coats during the cold months? Possible or will it be a “look”? Maybe you already covered this somewhere..
I haven’t covered it specifically, but more just because it’s not a look I wear really. I think it does risk being a look, but it can look good too
Hi Simon, do you still have this LP gilet and use it? I have one that is very similar to yours that I picked up at the LP end of season sales. I find I rarely use it any longer and am on the fence about selling it. I don’t use it because the ultra luxurious suede it is a little too delicate and “smooth” (not in terms of texture) for how I like to dress on the weekends these days, and I’m scared to let my three year old boy anywhere near it. The only thing holding me back is that it is a beautiful object that i would never buy again (I can’t imagine how much it would cost now in post LVMH pricing) that I’m afraid I would regret selling it. Interested in your thoughts on what you do with clothing you you really like as an object but rarely use for whatever reason.
I don’t use mine that much, but just because I bought the wrong size (too small – let me know if yours is bigger and I’ll be first on the waitlist!)
Seriously though, I would keep it if you think it’s mostly about your day-to-day lifestyle, as that will change. If it was something that you really didn’t wear for style reasons, and it was an unusual style, then I might feel differently, but here I wouldn’t.
Possible it’s worth adding that I got it several years ago and it has gotten a number of years of good wear, but my preferences and life have evolved and I no longer use it. It isn’t a wardrobe mistake that I’m thinking of selling only after a short time.
Understood – hopefully the reply makes sense in that case too
Hi Simon
Thanks this helps a lot. Yes it is a day to day style topic: mainly having small children and not having many occasions right now to wear such fine suede without fear of it being damaged. I think in this case I’ll keep it and see how it evolves because I doubt I’d buy something like this again at current LP prices and I could see myself regretting selling it.
Hi Simon, Other than this Loro Piana model, do you know of other gilets that work well around a shirt? Do you think a slim gilet is still a nice way to smarten up casual clothing
Yes I do, but I struggle to find good ones. They’re often much chunkier – which is fine, but a different look