This links to the second reason, which is the shawl collar’s versatility. A T-shirt is fine for Sunday mornings, but a shirt and tie also works for dress-down Friday. And it is the default choice when I get home because I know it will work with whatever else I am wearing.
The shawl-collar cardigan is more comfortable than a jacket around the house and more stylish than a normal cardigan. I always like clothes that are functional as well, so the fact the collar can usually be turned up and buttoned across appeals.
I have a few favourites. One is an old charcoal Ralph Lauren I bought during a conference in Chicago years ago. A second was an acquisition earlier this year from Albam – in a chunky cotton, which is unusual, and the last style they had made by Stevenage Knitting. And the third is the Drake’s cashmere sweater pictured.
Michael Drake calls the sweater iconic. I’m not sure I’d go that far, but it has certainly been popular (as demonstrated by the special orders now available) and I’ve coveted the flannel grey version for going on a year. Having finally secured it, I recommend going for a relatively big size – I’m a 39-inch chest, but the XS (38 inch) was rather too short in the body and the S (42 inch) fit far better. It is not a very slim fit, but then a comfortable sweater like this shouldn’t be.
You might also like the shawl collar sweater made in lambswool and sold by Ben Silver. Far better quality and finer features than is found on most woolen shawl sweaters and less expensive than cashmere versions.
I`ve been always enjoying reading your blog.
One question but what kind of style do you recommend for people with relatively short neck?
Knitwear without a collar, so crew necks or v-necks. Vs can also be more slimming
Hello Simon,
I am in the market for a shawl cardigan. Unfortunately, as a student, Drake’s beautiful Version for 700 is completely out of the question for me. Can you recommend a cheaper alternative?
F.
A&S? Lambs wool so half that price at least
Hi Simon,
following your suggestion I did some additional research and got lost in the byzantine online world of scotish cashmere: It appears to me that Drake’s wonderful “Iconic Shawl Collar Cardigan” is in fact identical to William Lockie’s “Windsor Shawl Collar Jacket”. For some strange reason however this producer (Lockie) has absolutely no intention at all to sell those, but instead lists a couple of phone number. Using those I eventually ended up at “Heather Wallace” which appears to be an online shop which offers the very same cardigans as Drake’s but makes no mention of William Lockie at all. Looking at the source code and credits of the homepages it appears that they (Wallace and Drake) are connected. I feel confused.
They’re not directly connected, but they do supply them. They are a maker, drakes are not (of knitwear). The world of who sells what made by who is certainty confusing though
Hi Simon, thanks for the lovely and informative post. I’m looking into purchasing one of these and I noticed that you sized up to a Small (42). Do you mean the 40 (which drakes labels S) or the 42 (which drakes labels M)? cheers
S, so 40.
Do you know if the Drake’s model is cut exactly the same Lockies own ‘Windsor’ model? As the arms are far too baggy in my opinion.
I don’t I’m afraid, but the arms are pretty roomy, yes
The Drakes is made by Lockie and is exactly the same as their Windsor model. Worth noting that the Armoury cardigan is also the Lockie Windsor model.
If you buy it directly from Lockie it will have their label in it, not a Drakes or Armoury label, but it will be considerably cheaper.
Why pay more?
That’s a very big discussion, with the biggest point being that if you only shop on that basis, you will end up with no brands, shops or creativity in menswear whatever.
There is a good conversation about this on this post if you are interested.
I would agree if they did some, any designing work on the piece, like you usually do in your collaborations. They didn’t, they are just carrying Lockie’s product (like many other retailers do), but with their label stitched on. There’s absolutely no creativity to pay for there, so I don’t feel like I got any service out of Drake’s that warrants such huge upcharge.
You could at most argue that they “featured the piece in look books”, but I didn’t find it there, I found it from this article. Therefore, if anything I should be paying you, not Drake, for the upcharge. Which I am already doing through the various ads on the site.
True, I can see that. I think there’s an argument that Drake’s did a lot to popularise the shawl collar, for years, and made it the menswear staple it is now seen to be. And to an extent mills that now sell it under their own name are benefiting from that. But at the same time, that credit can’t last forever
Is lambswool more insulating than cashmere? Do you like your cashmere cardigan more? Does it pill? In appearance they look quite similar.
No, cashmere is more insulating, and I prefer it. It hasn’t pilled much.
The virtue of lambswool is price, and perhaps a slightly more casual look.
Lambswool is also more durable, isnt’ it?
Yes, true
Simon reply buttons not working, so this comment is in relation to Lockie above. Cant really agree with you I’m afraid. Drakes and Armoury both sell lots of products which are so unique to them that you would still go there for these items. My point is that a savvy shopper can get identical quality/make etc direct from the source and save significant sums of money. That is why, in these cases, both Drakes and Armoury talk about partnerships/scotland’s finest/traditions etc as a way of bigging up their product without mentioning Lockie.
Frankly, its hard to find better quality and value in classic knitwear styles than from WM, so not sure why anyone would want to look elsewhere.
Thanks, and yes sorry about the buttons still not working. It is being looked into…
I agree, there’s more a point to buying things from those shops where the design or approach is unique. But I also think it’s worthwhile supporting any shop and brand you get value from. I do think that if we don’t do that, we lose a huge amount. But do look at the long conversation on that linked post on Drakes, because all these points are made there better, and in more detail
Yes of course, supporting any brand or shop you get value from makes sense Simon. Which is why I buy virtually all of my knitwear from Lockie. I am supporting a brand I get value from, and in doing so I don’t have to pay a hefty mark up to buy the identical product from a “different” brand with a “different” label on it.
You’re not supporting a brand I’m afraid. You’re supporting a manufacturer, but then so are the brands that buy from that manufacturer.
The manufacturer does not pay for a shop you can visit and enjoy, or staff to man that shop and help you, or any creative outlet you might enjoy, such as a lookbook, styling and other photography. If we had none of those things, and only the makers, there would be very little of menswear, as I said.
Hi Simon – read through a few of your posts on Shawl-Cardigans. Seems that you have two principle concerns when it comes to sizing: how the cardigan fits around the waist; and how long it runs. It seems that there may sometimes be tension between these principles – a smaller size might fit better around the waist (as you mention in your other post on Shawl-Cardigans), but might run a bit too short (as you mention here). Any tips on how to navigate this tension?
I wouldn’t say there is, and I’m not sure there should be either.
Perhaps my thinking has moved on a little since those points, but I think a longer shawl should bit a little loose, and roomy. It would be weird to be long and slim.
Thanks, Simon. It sounds quite intuitive now that you put it that way. Very helpful!
Oh good, that’s always the aim!
Hello, Mr. Crompton. I love your site as I always reference it whenever looking into style. One thing I’ve come across recently while searching for a leather jacket is something called a Cossack jacket that has a shawl collar. I’m curious what your take is on the style if you’ve come across it before.
I haven’t Keith, no. Could you provide a link?
https://www.fivestarleather.us/products/1930s-vintage-cossack-real-steer-hide-leather-jacket-russet-brown?contact_posted=true#contact_form
This is one of the examples of a Cossack that I’m looking at. I recently discovered that Albert Einstein wore one made by Levi’s.
Not sure why it matters that Einstein wore one, but good to know! The jacket looks nice, though I might go for something a little simpler myself, eg without the tab on the collar. Small thing though
Thank you for you input. I greatly appreciate you taking time to respond. It doesn’t matter that Einstein wore one. I just thought it was interesting. Take care.
Oh good. No worries Keith, always happy to help on here