Black tops and tonal combinations under
In many ways, today's outfit is a natural extension of things we’ve been talking about recently. There was, back on August 12, our discussion about wearing all black , which has some bearing here. The outfit is not all black, of course, but i...
Black tops and tonal combinations under
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Yes they usually are - it sounds like your issue isn't really one of quality, just one of style. These older-fashioned T-shirts will last longer and soften up better, but they are thicker and made with a stronger necklin...
The (55) bespoke tailors I have known
This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a fu...
The (55) bespoke tailors I have known
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Yes, though Pirozzi is pretty much the top for what you'll get from Naples. Style differences are harder to go into without more space, but if there are specific questions I can try...
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
OK, so. Friend and photographer Jamie Ferguson has been locked up indoors for weeks, as we all have. And he’s gone a bit stir crazy. We had started talking a while ago about shoots we could do remotely. Perhaps looking at a few out...
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
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Good morning..Jamie is having fun ...being well dressed..bravo!!! Peace...
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it’s a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve). And second because their besp...
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
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They are good, yes, but whether they're the next best depends on what style you're after. To get a sense of that, compare this breakdown to the others in this series...
Jamie’s alternative Pitti picks
Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me. He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more workwear, and experiments more....
Jamie’s alternative Pitti picks
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I did not see it the first time but now i want to switch that picture to black & white and photoshop an M48 Patton crossing the Mekong Delta behind him....
New York bespoke tailors – Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misinf...
New York bespoke tailors – Updated
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Don’t forget Scali-Balletta at 16 E. 52nd St. After Vincent (James) Scali died, his brother Salvatore (Sam) Scali moved to 57th St. where he shared space with Henry Stewart. All 3 were contemporaries of Bill Fiorovanti...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was als...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
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Very well done. I think the videos on this site are a nice extra touch. It adds extra value and experience to hear from the personal side of tailoring, which I think is a very wirthwhile side to this industry. Luxury ite...
The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion
Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields befo...
The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion
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It varies, but largely yes...
The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on th...
Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes One of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we discussed and enjoyed. We...
The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on th...
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Hopefully September, but there's been a delay on production over August...
Young tailors take over Instagram!
This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account. Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pieces they are making and the t...
Young tailors take over Instagram!
This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account. Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pie...
The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo
Every Pitti Uomo for the past two years, we have held an event to bring people together with a unique group of the finest craftsmen in the world. For the next instalment, we will be returning to last summer's focus: bespoke tailoring. But whereas t...
The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo
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No, it's not really about craft - it's a trade show, where people come to see and buy product. And then there are the peacocks, who are about style (in theory) not craft....
Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London
A round-up of different notices today – three separate posts seems like overkill. First, I had the pleasure of putting together Mr Porter’s lead journal story last week – featuring some of our favourite craftsmen in ...
Paris, Mr Porter, and Dalcuore visiting London
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I had a chance to meet Eithen this weekend in NYC, where he accompanied Luke and Richard on one of Thom Sweeney's regular visits here. It's exciting to see this still young firm already working so hard to bring in fresh ...
How to wear a black necktie – reader question
Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/grey suit. Any other combination...
How to wear a black necktie – reader question
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I read very little online about menswear, with the exception of Die Workwear. Jason Diamond's columns are good, as is anything Tony Sylvester writes, eg for Brycelands. My favourite Substack is The Ruffian, about politic...
How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader q...
Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one’s life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader of your blog I’...
How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader q...
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Thanks Sam, great update, and great knowing how timeless this advice has been...
How to wear separate jackets and trousers
In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broader range of cloth, colour and p...
How to wear separate jackets and trousers
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Thank you, I will go for a jacket and a suit then....
A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question
Normal.dotm 0 0 1 492 2805 Euromoney PLC 23 5 3444 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Dear Simon, I hope that you don’t mind me emailing you, but I have a few questions regarding bespoke and made-to-measure suits that I ne...
A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question
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Hi Jae. I'm afraid it's not an easy answer, because MTM varies hugely in terms of quality of make, and fit. If you can afford bespoke, I'd generally say go with that though; and don't bother with upgraded cloth...
Thom Sweeney jacket and trousers
With most bespoke tailors worthy of the name, the quality of construction is pretty consistent. Everything worth the effort is done by hand: chest padding, inserting sleeves, sewing buttonholes. The French may double-sew their buttonholes; the Neapol...
Thom Sweeney jacket and trousers
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Your favourite item of clothing you bought in 2021: Midnight blue pleated tuxedo shirt with convertible cuffs from Thom Sweeney. Your favourite item of (ready-made) clothing ever: Black wool belted trench coat with epaul...
Thom Sweeney: settling in nicely
I first met Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney through a very dashing friend of mine, JC. That’s him modelling Thom Sweeney tailoring, above. I can see why JC likes the style; it is very him: sharp, sleek, close and with a readiness for experimenta...
Thom Sweeney: settling in nicely
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Thom Sweeney are part of the movement of independent boutiques that are helping to turn Mayfair into a destination shopping area. Where better to fall into as you fall out of Claridges or The Connaught. A wonderful shop/...
