Wax Walker back in stock – and the fit of vintage knitwear
During September and October will be restocking all of the outerwear collaborations we do with Private White VC, and releasing a new version of the Donegal raglan coat.
The Bridge Coat was restocked a couple of weeks ago, and just over half have sold so far, mostly to the waiting list. But all sizes are still available.
The redesigned Trench Coat, which launched back in the Spring, will be restocked in a couple of weeks; and soon after that we should have the Donegal, in a new grey herringbone.
Other winter pieces like the Indulgent Shawl Cardigan and the watch caps will also be restocked in a month or two - see the bottom of this post for a full list.
Today, however, it’s the turn of the Wax Walker - that modern and (for me) most flattering version of the classic waxed jacket, launched last year. It has just been restocked and is available here.
Unlike the other outerwear, there’s only ever been one set of photos of the Wax Walker, so we thought it would be good to take some more, this time in and around Mayfair.
I think they demonstrate how well the coat switches from rural to urban.
I’ve included some of the images we took in Ireland last year at the bottom of this post, to remind readers of that rural side. But when you’re in town, the dark-brown colour of the wax, and the black corduroy, make it much more harmonious than a green Barbour or its ilk.
Of course, some people want that contrast between a country coat and a city suit - that’s the point. But for those that don’t, or that need something to be a bit smarter in town, I think the Wax Walker works much better.
This outfit in particular is a combination for a dark, rainy day in town.
The roll neck is a black Bryceland’s RAF sweater (although that colour is not on sale at the moment - only navy, red, cream and camel) and the trousers are charcoal flannels, made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury in heavy Fox cloth (19oz, FS405 A2069/33). The boots are the Cranleigh from Edward Green in mink suede.
I think this is a good example of how black knitwear can be useful, particularly in a more muted, cold-colour wardrobe. Navy doesn’t quite fit with the palette, cream is too stark, and dark brown would be the same colour as the coat and shoes.
So black, although not a colour of knitwear worn that often by menswear guys, is a useful alternative - another option that might be already used elsewhere.
With the Wax Walker, black also picks up nicely on the black accents of the jacket: the facing on the collar, and the reinforcements on the ends of the sleeves.
There’s also something about this shade of dark-brown cloth that feels like it has a black cast to it. A shadowy feel, perhaps, just created by the texture of the waxed finish.
I wouldn’t wear the black cap with a black knit on its own - that would be rather too cat burglar-like - but with the Wax Walker over the top it works well.
And, just as with the knit, black is a surprisingly useful colour to have available as a cashmere beanie or watch cap. It compliments muted shades of everything, from brown to cream to green.
Above I’ve also included an image of the Bryceland’s roll neck without the jacket.
I did this because I thought it was a good opportunity to demonstrate how flattering vintage-style knitwear can be.
The Bryceland’s piece is inspired by an old RAF knit, and like those old pieces the ribbing at the waist is both tight and long. This means it folds down easily on top of itself, enabling you to move your upper body without any chance of the knit riding up, and letting in cold air.
The chest is then cut large, so you could wear layers underneath if you wish. The overall effect is of an almost Atlas-like silhouette: large on top, slim down below.
I also chose to size up, from my normal 40 to a 42: the slimness of the waist meant I could do so without that becoming too big.
You can read the full details on the Wax Walker on our original launch post here. That’s always the best way to understand why the product was designed the way it was.
If anyone wants a quick summary, the key points are:
- It uses a dark-brown waxed cotton that is not usually seen in waxed jackets, making it unusual but also perhaps more modern and urban
- It is cut long enough to sit over a tailored jacket
- The back is designed like a field jacket, with bellows on either side of the back and a half belt. This creates a more masculine look than the normal raglan-sleeve style
- That's accentuated by the lack of a shoulder seam - the shoulders have one piece of cloth sitting over the top. This looks good but also makes it more waterproof
- It has a removable grey-flannel liner, making it a good layer for most of the year. The drawstring waist makes it adaptable for layers underneath as well
- The outer chest pockets are cut into the seams, make them virtually hidden. They’re lined with cashmere
- It uses British wax, British wool, and was made at the Private White VC factory in Manchester
There’s so much more. My favourite detail is the jersey panel we used across the inside of the back, to keep the bellows perfectly functional. It’s genius, but no one will ever see it.
As I said, all the details, as well as pictures of me getting soaked, here. The Wax Walker costs £665 + VAT.
For those interested, the other upcoming PS products and restocks are:
- New collaboration with Begg & Co, coming in two weeks
- Restock of the redesigned Trench Coat, in navy, just after
- Restock of the Indulgent Shawl Cardigan, in navy and one new colour, in early October
- New grey colour of the Donegal Coat, just after that
- Restock of the PS Harris Tweed, at the end of the month
- Restock of the Watch Caps, at the same time
- Small restock of the reversible Valstarino, in early November
- New iteration of the shearling coat with Cromford, at the same time
As per usual, those on the waiting list will get first access, so email the support team if you would like to be on that list ([email protected]). Thank you.
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man