Luxury chore coats compared
By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...
Luxury chore coats compared
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Yes it does, and yes it can...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
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Well, if someone were looking straight at you from behind, they should just see your legs disappear under the skirt of the jacket, without anything connecting those legs together. It's that angle that's most important re...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Cacciopp...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
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Yes, Zegna isn't as popular as Loro Piana generally, and in my view with good reason - the Zegna ranges have never appealed to me as much. I can't think of one that does have them off the top of my head, but I'm sure som...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018
This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendat...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018
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Thanks!...
A guide to linen bunches – 2018
This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...
A guide to linen bunches – 2018
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Even if it's 4 years old, very helpful, this and the "Guide to Cloth" I mean. Thank you, Simon & James, especially for mentioning Dugdale. On their website I saw linen cloth with beautiful colors and patterns, it giv...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018
Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would quickly be out of date. ...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018
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It depends a lot on the trouser. With high-twist wools, no. With flannel or tailoring cottons, yes quite a lot...
Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you w...
Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their roots in particular parts of th...
Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you w...
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Hi David, To be honest I hadn't included that in this section at all, as it's mostly quite smart compared to anything modern. Even flannel trousers, a shirt and sweater is pretty smart today. Did you mean that kind of cl...
Ballantyne/Berk cashmere available again
UPDATE: Original article published in 2013 The article in the bottom of this post was originally published in September 2013, when Berk in the Burlington Arcade was closing. Ballantyne, the factory, was shutting down and Berk was the last retai...
Ballantyne/Berk cashmere available again
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In general they don't. There certainly have been many through history that have been able to make very good money from it though. No idea why Ripense does. I'd conjecture he has other money....
The corduroy suit
I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal environment like an office. Most no...
The corduroy suit
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Great, thanks, Simon....
Italy’s mills and merchants explained
This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simple...
Italy’s mills and merchants explained
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I'm afraid I don't know currently - and it depends whether you're talking about retail or wholesale. Best to check with them....
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...
Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained
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There's no guarantee that a cloth from an English name will be woven in England unfortunately. But you don't usually want Dormeuil, not being English, and you want to look at Dugdale, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, Fox, Smi...
Half-lined and unlined jackets
An image-heavy post this week, to illustrate options for summer jackets. In particular, those half-lined and unlined. An unlined jacket is a nice way to create greater ventilation in hotter temperatures. The major disadvantage is that the jacket is m...
Half-lined and unlined jackets
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Yes, when people talk about unlined jackets they normally mean the sleeves are still lined and there is usually a little lining in the top of the back as well. Unlined sleeves are rather easier on cotton and linen, but s...
The details of Pal Zileri Sartoriale
Italian brands like Canali, Corneliani, Zegna and Pal Zileri all place a lot of emphasis upon the family ethic of their production and the hand-made nature of their suits. At least with the highest label, such as Zegna’s Couture or Sartoriale a...
The details of Pal Zileri Sartoriale
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Your suits are very eye catching materials> I do hope to visit some day on an individual shopping. I really love your fabrics....
The Rake: A real style magazine
Finally. A magazine that professes to be about men’s style and actually dedicates most of its content to that topic. Finally. A magazine that takes men’s style seriously enough to include a regular section on tailoring, how it works and h...
The Rake: A real style magazine
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:o...
Behind the scenes: A Suit That Fits
It is always rewarding to get a look behind the scenes of a company. Nothing beats it for an insight into the philosophy, working practices and dedication to detail present in the production process. I was fortunate enough to peek behind the scenes a...
Behind the scenes: A Suit That Fits
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6 Guest Comments » 1. Simon, I’m incredibly jealous of you. I’ve always loved the thought of sculpting a gorgeous suit out of stunning materials, and you’ve managed to see it all going on for real. Can’t wait to...
