It's easy to forget that when Bryceland's first started, the idea was just to do tailoring. Six and half years later, on the eve of opening his third shop in London, Ethan Newton reflects with me on how far he and the brand have come.
Hear how he thinks the menswear movement has matured in the past 10 years, and relaxed along the way. Hear also why he would consider making more street wear, or technical clothing. And what he wears on a first date.
In all seriousness, this interview in front of an audience of PS readers and Bryceland's customers was a real joy. There's fun in there, but some deadly serious points about how clothes should be treated and consumed too. I hope you like it.
This series of talks began with a discussion with Tony Sylvester - with some particularly interesting points on subcultures - of which you can see the film here.
The next one is with the legend that is Edward Sexton, on Monday December 12th, also at Mortimer House. Please do come along, the 50+ people at the last one really added to the atmosphere and enjoyment.
I am wearing my charcoal flannel suit from Vestrucci, with a grey brushed-cotton shirt from Simone Abbarchi, and black Cleverley bespoke oxfords.
Having visited Bryceland a few times I can attest to Ethan’s comments about producing ‘product’. It’s not all my style but it’s all so beautifully made and has that ‘last forever’ quality about it. The world is a better place for Brycelands. How true his comment about companies too often producing items purely about commerce/sales/their names and not about the item itself. Nature or nurture (if that’s even important) but yes Ethan does seem to have changed a lot since I first met him at The Armoury, but then we all change don’t we.
Very informative. I hope the shop does well and will certainly visit when I’m next in the UK. Do you know if there will be a uk webstore or collect in shop?
Interesting that Ethan uses ‘product’ with a positive meaning. I’ve long thought that too much clothing actually fails to bring anything to your daily life(apart from vanity).
Good point on UK ecomm, I don’t know. I’ll ask
Hello Peter,
Yes, indeed there will be a fully functioning website to accompany the store opening. Hopefully not too far off now.
I have included the UK email below, as well as the holding page for the website, which you can sign up to our mailing list via.
Bryceland’s UK Website
Email address: [email protected]
Ben
Thanks for the speedy response.
The UK website link does not work.
Please try this one, not sure why the link is not working as there is no way to test it. As the website is not live yet, there isn’t much to see, but if you wish to sign up for the mailing list, just drop me a good old-fashioned email.
Website:brycelandsco.co.uk
Email: [email protected]
Hi Simon, Ethan,
Extremely interesting and informed discussion.
I’ve always admired your style Ethan and to some extent am influenced (not slavishly!) by it.
Looking forward to visiting the London shop (I live in London).
As you suggested London is a great place and this country has weathered far, far worse challenges. In my opinion the space I think you operate in is less likely to be impacted than for example, the ‘name on the front’ brands and high street stores.
Best wishes for the your continued success.
It’s a very good interview and it’s great news that Ethan is opening a Bryceland’s store on Chiltern Street. However, my heart sank when he talked about the new store moving into streetwear, sportswear and “technical” garments. I really hope that it stocks the brand’s classics such as the OCBD shirts, army chinos and Winston trousers.
It will Gary, that was more about the future.
Been looking forward to this interview and it’s certainly great that their opening in London. I wonder will there be a I’m e-commerce? The sting of import duties has always been a bit of a blocker for me with their products.
I know we’ve talked allot about the ‘rules’ of dressing over the years and how to break them or even if they are worth noting at all. But with respect to wearing a hat indoors I’ve always felt this so called rule to still seem relevant. It seems somewhat odd to be wearing what is very much an outdoor hat (Ethan’s) in doors and especially in this setting. I guess it’s more of a fashion item and therefor worn as such rather that being for practical purposes but it does standout to me as a little inappropriate somehow. Almost similar to being sat there in sunglasses.
Simon,
Could you find a moment to address Johnnie’s point about wearing a hat indoors? I’m asking not for the purpose of throwing a dart at Ethan – but rather in general. I don’t want to appear stuffy and entirely understand Ethan’s motivation and playful style.
Is it ever appropriate for a grown man to wear this type of hat indoors – in this setting… for anyone else but Ethan?
Best,
Robert
Sure. Personally no, I wouldn’t wear a hat indoors like that, and I think that applies to the vast majority of men. It’s a little different perhaps when it’s so much a part of your style, and also when you’re presenting yourself for a talk along these lines
Where is the new store ?
It will be on Chiltern Street. It’s not open yet
Are you aware of a planned opening date?
Expected to be early next year
I initially misread your opening paragraph and was incredibly surprised to learn that Brycelands had two stores in London already! It will be a great addition to Chiltern Street, which feels like it’s going through its own little evolution at the moment.
Do you know, roughly, when it will be?
Ok, now I’m going to see check the comments above!
Great to hear a store is opening in London, always wanted to explore the brand but was put off by the long distance shipping/returns, import duties etc.
Any idea when they plan to be open?
Starting to get the feeling I should have included this in the article now… early in the New Year
You and your guests most of the time sit with their ankle over their knee. I find it is better not to sit like this with shoes on.
Thank you H. To be honest I don’t really care about something like that, but thanks anyway
At the risk of opening up a whole can of worms: why?
Manners, adab, we try not to do this because it might make some people who sit beside us feel uncomfortable.
Our shoe could be dirty and touch the clothes of the person next to us. Less of a problem if we remove our shoes.
I consider it best to always keep the shoes on the ground or not far from the ground. But never potentially in the way where other people might want to pass.
Interesting line of reasoning, although I would argue if you’re close enough to somebody that you would risk rubbing your foot up against them, crossing your legs at all would be a fairly discourteous invasion of their personal space, ankle over the knee or not. I’d be surprised if this needs spelling out to most of the readers of this site; then again, I live in London, where manspreading on crowded tubes is a common occurrence.
Thank you for doing this Simon, much appreciated.
Between Mark Cho, Kirby Allison and you, I must say we really are living in golden age of menswear related video content. Constant flow of many good interviews is truly a blessing for those of us that live far away from the usual hubs of the craft.
Superb.
Thank you so much for putting these talks together Simon. Webinars, videos and comment boards can all be very useful but like the ebb, flow and spontaneity of conversation.
I love Ethan’s thoughts on wanting to make garments that are functional, high quality and that the wearer intends to use forever.
I have a gore-tex anorak that I use for alpine skiing and other outdoor pursuits. I purchased it in 1991 and it’s still going strong. I get compliments on it every time I hit the slopes. I’ve yet to see a similar jacket that I would replace it with. It’s become a part of me and holds so many great memories.
Brilliant interview. Wish I had attended. I didn’t appreciate how much I would agree with that Ethan said and believed in. I wish his new London store great success.
Interesting interview. Would be nice to see and be talked through a bit of the ‘product’ in a video, potentially as an intro to an interview. I imagine that’s what the team will do in person at these events but we can’t all be there. No desire for a sales pitch but think there are viewers with an interest in the details.
Good point. It’s not what was happening before the event, but is what would definitely happen in store. I’ll suggest it to Bryceland’s as something they might like to do with video as well perhaps
The lead picture of this article looks like an interesting conversation about the product is happening!
Ah yes, true! It was more about how the pieces there had aged over the years, but pretty similar I guess
Hi Simon,
Thank you very much for posting this very interesting event. It’s always instructive to listen to Ethan when it comes to menswear and style. What I’ve bought over the past years or just consider buying has been informed to some extend by his pieces of advice. Actually, anyone insterested in either building a sound wardrobe or merely refining an existing one could easily pick at least one or two ideas really worth considering.
So it was a great opportunity to hear him on this occasion. Thanks again!
John
No problem John, and pleased you found it that useful
Good talk between 2 well dressed men….keep it up!!! Much joy to all..cheers!!!!!
Cheers Kenneth
I really like your outfit Simon. Is it a Charcoal cashmere shirt with a charcoal flannel suit? Thanks for the inspiration. 🙂
Thanks Steph, yes it is.
Whilst I appreciate that it is precisely none of my business, I’ve always wondered whether Ethan parted from the folks at The Armoury on cordial or acrimonious terms. Given how little each mentions the other when asked about their respetive sartorial journeys, I supsect the latter. In any case, it seems always to be the unacknoweldged elephant in the room.
Thanks Michael. I know what you mean, though if that were the case I think there’s also a politeness in not talking about it on either side
Thanks Simon and Ethan. That was an outstanding discussion. As a customer at Ethan’s store in Tokyo, I can assure Londoners they’re in for a treat with Brycelands opening in London next year. So many good points made by both of you in your chat. As a fellow Australian, I just loved Ethan’s reference to bending menswear rules. Couldn’t agree more. Congratulations Simon on a job well done.
Very insteresting thoughts there from Ethan.
Simon – great outfit. How does the brushed cotton shirt work under a suit? I find nappier cloths tend not to flow properly under a jacket, to get a bit stuck. What do you think?
Thanks!
I find it’s OK as long as the jacket is fully lined myself
Simon, saw your IG post about the stock arriving st the new Bryceland’s London shop. Did you have a chance to see or try the Foul Weather Anorak? If so, what is your opinion?
Also, any thoughts on the chambray quarter zip shirt?
Thanks very much.
Hey JH,
I have tried the Anorak in the past, and the design is great though it’s quite roomy on a figure like mine. I’m actually working on a post about anoraks/smocks that will be out in a couple of weeks.
The chambray is lovely but the collar is pretty large – in common with some other Brycelands shirts. I bought a pair of the black denim though, which I’m excited about. I’ll cover those too when I’ve worn them a bit.
Thanks for the reply! Interested to her your thoughts on the black denim when you’ve worn them for a bit, as I myself am considering getting a pair (I have and love their 133 denim).
I remember you said before you didn’t have a pair and were not generally interested. I assume this is part of the (interesting) series about wearing more black. In the recent post about the black tailored jacket, you mentioned that black trousers are some of the most difficult to incorporate into the wardrobe. Would you say the same holds true for black denim jeans?
And also, while it is of course too early to know how will you actually pair the black denim, I would be very interested to hear what are your preliminary ideas – what outfits did you imagine putting together when you bought the jeans?
Thanks again.
Yes, I think we begin to be more interested in clothes over time, particularly when we see others wear them well.
However, I wouldn’t put these in the bracket of black trousers, as they’ll fade quickly and basically become dark grey/charcoal. I’m expecting they’ll then be wearable with any colour combination where I’d normally wear dark grey. From what I’ve seen on others, navy is particularly nice on top